This section is under construction and should be ready by the end of September 2013
every thing in this section is what i do keeping my bees it works well for me and you should only take it as a starting point
every hive, beekeeper and area are different if it suits you and your bees thats the best way to do it.

Many Beekeepers and local beekeeping associations will tell you "Do it like this or that our way is the only way" But there are many ways to do many things and you will find the way that suits you and your bees is the best way!  

Winter Feeding
Feeding Fondant
Sugar Syrup
1:1 Sugar Syrup
2:1 syrup
1:2 Syrup
Thymol Pre-Mix
National Bee Hive Dimensions & Statistics
Langstroth dimentions
Commercial Dimentions
Smith Beehive Dimentions
WBC Beehive Dimentions
Beeswax Lip Balm
Antiseptic Beeswax Balm

You should always add fondant to your winter feeding.Even if the bees don`t need it I always give every hive at least 1Kg on top of the brood frames. Roll out the fondant in to a large square place directly on top of the brood frames and cover with cling film this stops the fondant from drying out and going hard. This has saved my bees on many occations from starving especially from isolation starvation.

 Feeding your bees to go in to the winter you shouid start after the Varroa treatment I  feed my bees 2:1 syrup
2-1 Syrup mix is 2Kg of white sugar to 1Ltr of water feed the bees as much as they want and stop feeding the when they will take no more
 each hive needs around 90 Lb of store to make it through the winter some need more some need less


Sugar Syrup

One of the reasons to keep bees is because you can harvest the honey that they create. After a honey harvest, it may be necessary to supply bees with an artificial honey replacement or with a source of artificial nectar, in order to prevent starvation. At other times when real nectar may be scarce or unavailable, artificial nectar can be used to encourage the drawing of comb or to aid in the rearing of brood. It should also be noted that honey contains materials that bees can not digest and sugar syrup makes for a better source of bee feed. This does not mean that it is appropriate to take all of the bees’ honey. After all, the bees did work rather hard for it. Bees should always have excess honey in storage. When using sugar, only use white cane sugar. Don’t used raw sugar, brown sugar or molasses as they contain impurities that may harm the bees or may be difficult for the bees to digest. If using powdered sugar instead of standard crystallized cane sugar, be sure to check the ingredients list as some powdered sugar contains anti-caking agents that might be harmful to bees. Although the following recipes call for ingredients by weight, volume is a close enough approximation as the bees don’t particularly care about the specifics of sugar concentration.

 1:1 Syrup

1:1, or One-to-One syrup can be used for supplemental spring feeding and encourage the drawing of comb.

Simply stir sugar into room temperature water until all the sugar has dissolved to produce the desired quantity. The dissolving process will be sped up with hotter water, just be sure not to boil the sugar solution. Some beekeepers suggest that you bring the water to a rolling boil in a covered pot to kill fungus and bacteria then remove from heat and stir in the raw sugar using a spoon that has also been sterilized in boiling water. Put the cover back on the pot and let cool to room temperature before feeding to the bees. The sterile sugar solution will stay clean and clear for up to two weeks using this method. One volume of water plus one volume of sugar when prepared equals roughly 1.5 volumes of syrup. Weight of water = 8.34 lbs(#) per gallon 1/2 gal = 4.14# 1qt = 2.09# 1pt = 1.04# & 1 cup = .52# of water.

One 2-liter bottle of water plus one cup of water plus 5 pounds of sugar yields just under two 2-liter bottles of "close enough" 1:1 Syrup

2:1 Syrup

2:1, or Two-to-One syrup can be used for fall feeding after the last honey harvest, or if the bees do not have a sufficiently large store of honey.

The two parts sugar will not dissolve in room temperature water. Because of this mixing difficulty it is advisable to mix the sugar into near-boiling water. The best way to do this is to bring the water to a rolling boil in a covered pot and then remove from heat and stir in the raw sugar using a spoon that has also been sterilized in the boiling water. Do not return the pot to heat and allow the sugar mixture to boil, as this will give the chance for some of the sugars to caramelize, creating a partially indigestible and possibly even toxic solution as far as the bees are concerned. Be sure to let the solution thoroughly cool before feeding it to the bees. It was once common practice to add cream of tartar (tartaric acid) to 2:1 syrup to prevent re-crystallization of the sugars, however this is not recommended, as it is believed to shorten the life spans of the bees that consume it.

For those without a scale, an easy recipe is 5 parts granulated sugar and 2 parts water by VOLUME. Sugar is somewhere between 170 and 200 grams/cup (depends on the reference)[and water is 240 grams/cup[So, for example, 5 cups of granulated sugar is 850-1000 grams, and 2 cups of water is 480 grams, which is close to 2:1. Picking 2:1 is a totally arbitrary ratio and is only a convenient, simple ratio for the bee keeper to think about for feeding bees late in the season.

2:1 syrup results in a final volume of syrup approximately double that of the liquid - e.g. 2kg of sugar in 1 litre of water will create 2 litres of syrup. This is due to the dissolved volume of sugar being less than in its crystalline form.

1:2 Syrup

1:2, or One-to-Two syrup can be used to stimulate brood rearing by simulating a nectar flow.

Simply mix the sugar with room temperature water and feed the bees

 Thymol Pre Mix Recipe
30g thymol crystals placed in honey jar, add 5ml of isopropyl alcohol to the crystals, place jar into a water bath of boiling water to speed up the dissolving process.
In another jar pour in 140 ml of boiling water and add 1 teaspoon of lecithin granules, stir well, and place this jar into a water bath of boiling water, stirring often for about ten minutes or so until most of the lecithin granules have dissolved, you can then strain this mixture through a tea strainer or similar to remove any granules that have not dissolved fully, then simply add the dissolved thymol to this mix, and shake well, will look just like a jar of milk.
To use add 5ml to each gallon of syrup and stir well, syrup will go milky, unlike when using the old original mix.
If the mixture forms any crystals at a later date, tip into old small pan and reheat, do this outdoors.
you add 5ml of this mix to 1 gallon of sugar syrup

 

National Bee Hive Dimensions & Statistics
External dimensions - 18 1/8" Square.
Brood Body Depth - 8 7/8"
14" X 12" Brood Body Depth - 12 1/2"
Super Depth - 5 7/8"
Brood Area is 2,200 Sq. Inch.
No. Of Worker Cells - 50,000
Bottom Bee Space

Frame Sizes
Top Bars – 17” long
Bottom bars – 14” long
Deep side bars – 8 ½” long
14” x12” side bars – 12” long
Shallow side bars – 5 ½” long

Foundation sizes
Deep –
13 7/16” x 8”
14 x 12” – 13 7/16” x 11 ½”
Shallow – 13 7/16” x 5”

How Many Frames in Each Box

Brood Body:
11 Hoffman Self-Spacing Frames (DN4)
11 Frames on Narrow Ends


14" X 12" Brood Body:
11 Hoffman Self-spacing 14" X 12" Frames

Super:
11 Hoffman Self-Spacing (SN4)
10 British Standard Manley Frames
9 or 10 Frames on Castellated Spacers
8 Frames on Wide Ends

12 Hoffman Self-Spacing Frames can be fitted in to a brood body/super, although it is recommended that 11 is used as this make manipulations easier. Also with the use of a Dummy Board.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Langstroth Bee Hive Dimensions & Statistics
External Dimension – 20” x 16 1/4
Brood Body Depth – 9 7/16
Jumbo Brood Body Depth 11 3/4
Super Depth - 5 3/4
The Brood Area is 2750 sq. ins.
No. of Worker Cells 61,400
Top Bee Space

Frames sizes
Top Bars – 19” Long
Bottom Bars – 17 9/16” Long
Deep Side Bars – 9 1/8” Long
Jumbo Side Bars – 11 ¼” Long
Shallow Side Bars – 5 3/8” Long

Foundation Sizes
Deep – 16 3/4” 8 5/8
Jumbo – 16 3/4” x 10 3/4
Shallow – 16 3/4” x 4 7/8

How Many Frames in Each Box:
10 Hoffman frames in either a brood body or super
8 Manley frames in the super


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Commercial Beehive Dimensions and statistics
External Dimension – 18 5/16” Square
Brood Body Depth – 10 1/2
Super Depth – 6 3/8
The Brood Area is 3000 sq. ins.
No. of Worker Cells 70,500
Bottom Bee Space

Frames Sizes
Top Bars – 17 1/4” long
Bottom Bars – 16” long
Deep Side Bars – 10” long
Shallow Side Bars – 6” long

Foundation Sizes
Deep – 15 7/16” x 9 1/2
Shallow – 15 7/16” x 5 1/2

How many frames in each box:
11 Hoffman frames in either a Brood Body or Super
10 Manley frames in the Super


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Smith Beehive Dimensions and statistics
External dimension – 16 3/8” x 18 1/4
Brood body depth - 8 7/8
Super depth - 5 7/8
The brood Area is 2200 sq. ins.
No. of worker cells 50,000
Top Bee Space

Frames Sizes
Top Bars – 15 1/2” long
Bottom Bars – 14” long
Deep Side Bars – 8 1/2” long
Shallow Side Bars – 5 1/2” long

Foundation Sizes
Deep – 13 7/16” x 8”
Shallow – 13 7/16” x 5”

How many frames in each box:
11 Hoffman Self-Spacing Frames in either a Brood Body or Super
10 Manley Frames in the Super


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WBCHive Dimensions and Statistics
External dimension of lifts - 21 1/2” square
External dimension of brood body and super –17 3/4” x 16 1/4
Brood body depth - 8 7/8
14” x 12” brood body depth - 12 1/2
Super depth - 5 7/8
The brood area is 2000 sq. ins.
No. of worker cells 45,000
Bottom Bee Space

Frames sizes
Top Bars – 17” long
Bottom bars – 14” long
Deep side bars – 8 1/2” long
14” x12” side bars – 12” long
Shallow side bars – 5 1/1” long

Foundation sizes
Deep – 13 7/16” x 8”
14 x 12” – 13 7/16” x 11 1/2
Shallow – 13 7/16” x 5”

How many frames in each box
10 Hoffman (self-spacing) frames in either a brood body or super. Although it is possible to fit in 11 frames, it is easier for manipulation to use 10 frames and a dummy board.
10 frames on narrow ends in the brood body.
9 Manley frames in the super
8 or 10 frames on castellated spacers in the super
8 frames on wide ends in the super


Lip balm
2 part shredded beeswax, 4 parts of coconut oil, 1 part glycerine (optional)
2 parts liquid honey, 4 drops of essential oil such as almond, peppermint, orange or lemon. Heat the
beeswax, coconut oil and glycerine to 160 deg F. Remove from heat. Add the honey and stir until the
mixture starts to thicken (140 degrees or so), then evenly add the essential oil while stirring and
continue to stir the mixture until cool. Pour into final containers (small screw-top balm jars) at
about 120 degrees and let set until completely cool



Antiseptic Balm ( Use instead of antiseptic ointment, this is far superior! )
Ingredients:
2 ounces Beeswax
3 ounces Sweet Almond Oil
1 ounce Jojoba Oil
20 drops Wheatgerm Oil
20 drops Myrrh Essential Oil
20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil

( Makes enough to fill 4 each 1 ounce salve jars or 1 ounce metal tins )

A rule of thumb is 2 parts oil to one part beeswax. Simply heat the Sweet Almond and Jojoba oil in a saucepan and add Beeswax. If you want a thin consistency ( such as a cream or Vaseline ) add only a little bit of Beeswax. Want it thicker like wax? Just add more Beeswax.
Allow the base to cool down to see what the consistency is like. If it's too thick, add more Sweet Almond oil and reheat, too thin?, add more Beeswax.
As the base is cooling add the essential oils to enhance the healing effect of the balm. These essential oils can be found in our Essential Oil List.
After you have added the essential oil and the lip balm is still warm enough to pour, carefully pour it into Salve Jars or Metal Tins.

Laying Workers

When a colony becomes queenless, the ovaries of several workers develop and workers begin to lay unfertilized eggs. Development of the workers’ ovaries is believed to be inhibited by the presence of brood and the queen and her chemicals. The presence of laying workers in a colony usually means the colony has been queenless for one or more weeks. However, laying workers also may be found in normal “queenright” colonies during the swarming season and when the colony is headed by a poor queen. Colonies with laying workers are recognized easily: there may be anywhere from five to fifteen eggs per cell (Figure 3) and small-bodied drones are reared in worker-sized cells. In addition, laying workers scatter their eggs more randomly over the brood combs, and eggs can be found on the sides of the cell instead of at the base, where they are placed by a queen. Some of these eggs do not hatch, and many of the drone larvae that do hatch do not survive to maturity in the smaller cells.


Making Frames

 Making up frames is simple the important thing is to make sure the well put together as when the bees draw out the wax and fill them with stores they get heavy and you don`t want them to collapse. So make sure there held together well. I use 15mm brads and a brad gun but panel pins and a small hammer work just as well some also use a small dab of wood glue to add extra strength.
The following photos show the order to put them together on the top bar you will see a strip of wood that is cut most of the way through you need to break this off and when you put your wax in bend the long hoops of wire over and use this strip of wood to trap them this will then stop your sheet of wax from slipping out.
 

 

shopping cart software by ekmPowershop